Finally, I have now got hold of the Panasonic GF1 with it’s Lumix 14-45mm kit lens (Thanks to my friend CW) and the latest Olympus PEN E-PL1 with it’s M-Zuiko digital 14-42mm kit lens! Now, this shall be a FAIR COMPARISON, as much as possible, as both are with their standard kit zoom lenses.
I am writing this review of comparison between the two cameras in the SIMPLEST manner I can think of, yet hopefully good enough for the layman, and even for one who has ZERO knowledge of cameras and photography, to make a clearer decision between the two, i.e. WHICH TO BUY?
NO REVIEWER IS 100% BALANCED. So, make your own conclusions!
We have to understand that both cameras’ main target audience are NOT the Professionals. The main target audience are consumers, ordinary students, daddies, mummies… and photo enthusiasts who want something small to carry with them daily… yet something that way surpasses the usual compact digital cameras’ standards in image quality and handling.
We have also seen the Micro-four-thirds cameras landing in the bag of professionals as a leisure camera, second camera or a backup camera, and some use it for work like myself, or Kirk Tuck.
BUT this review is aimed NOT at the professionals.
In this review, I shot with both cameras set to iAuto Mode. I used them in my everyday life. I shoot like an ordinary Daddy, like what every dad would want to photograph his child. I used both cameras NO DIFFERENT from any of you out there. So, the images I am gonna present here are NO GALLERY PRINTS. :p
My Workflow:
Shot with both cameras using RAW, iAuto Mode. I used them in Normal Circumstances as an ordinary guy in his everyday life, shooting in shopping centres, shooting his own kid, shooting at home and wherever he goes. All images are converted to JPGs using Lightroom Beta 3 version in default mode with no additional modification to the files at all, not even exposure, just to show you what comes out straight from the cameras.
WHY SHOOT in iAUTO MODE?
These Micro Four Thirds cameras are meant to produce amazing pictures straight off the camera without having to adjust much settings. If I want a camera to adjust it’s settings as a playtime, it would be the Nikon D700 or the Nikon D3s. There is at least 100 menu options in them to choose from. Now, at least in my personal philosophy, I expect the camera to meet or exceed my expectations at it’s so-called most intelligent “iAuto Mode”!
iAuto Mode is supposedly much better than P (Program)Mode, or in Cantonese as a joke, what we call the “PUN” Mode (basically means “idiot mode”). It’s supposed to be much more intelligent than the P Mode. Now let’s see how “intelligent” each camera behaves… … here we go… …
NOTE: All images are uploaded in the highest tolerable resolution online in this blog possible for you to download and pixel-peep. To do that, keep clicking on image till you can right click and save the high resolution file.
1. Indoor Artificial Lighting Condition – Shopping Centers (Most digital cameras suck at this)
Verdict:
Digital cameras have always got a problem with reds. There are very few digital cameras that can reproduce red accurately. As both shots were shot in iAuto Mode, white balance was AWB(auto). In this instance, Olympus over-cooked the reds and Panasonic produced more neutral colors.
2. Action Shots Indoors using iAuto Mode
Verdict:
In handling the cameras, immediately you will feel that GF1’s auto-focusing is faster and seems more decisive and definite. Initial impression is that the GF1 “found” focus and snapped the shutter much faster than the E-PL1. BUT upon scrutinizing both cameras’ files in my computer, I have found that the GF1 may have activated it’s shutter much faster and easier than the E-PL1 but to my disappointment, the hit rates are just as bad as the E-PL1! The number of “useable” images shot in iAuto mode for both cameras, chasing after running kids, are just about the same amount! We are talking about nailing the focus.
Suggested Solutions:
A. Buy a DSLR which performs well through ISO3200 and above like the latest Canon 550D which is good through ISO6400
OR
B. Use ISO1600 on either the E-PL1 or GF1 coupled with a fast lens like the Lumix 20mm F1.7. Shoot RAW and convert using Lightroom or Photoshop and you get lesser noise than direct JPGs straight out of camera.
3. Macro Test, using the minimum focus distance on each lens
Verdict:
It is quite clear that the E-PL1’s 14-42mm kit lens has a much closer focusing distance which gives higher magnification though it underexposed. But just a little exposure adjustment either in-camera when shooting or in your computer will bring it’s shine back easily!
4. i-Auto Intelligence in using In-Body Image Stabilization and Lens Optical Stabilization in lowlight conditions
Verdict:
It’s not fair to say that Olympus’s in-body I.S. is better than the Panasonic lens’s O.S. here as the iAuto mode in both cameras gave a drastic difference in ISO, which results in different shutter speeds.
But what we can see here, and from all the above examples so far is that Panasonic tends to give a lower ISO which results in slower shutter speeds. In this instance, the intelligence in the E-PL1 beats the GF1.
Panasonic should learn that it’s lens’s O.S. is not good enough for 1/8s in it’s iAuto Mode! Having this happened in iAuto Mode is quite unforgivable unless they are like the Nikon guys who expect us to dabble an hour or two with it’s menu before shooting. Unlike Olympus, I have done many shots with the E-P1 and E-P2 at shutter speeds as slow as 1/2s and achieved sharp images using it’s in-body image stabilization!
5. Daylight Photography
Now, by today’s digital photography technology standards, all cameras should already have no problems rendering DAYLIGHT images. Let’s see … …
Again, the reds are different here. Maybe it’s just “different film” we are looking at here? Which “film” do you prefer? Also, the iAuto on both cameras focused differently. But this can be done manually by “re-focusing” the camera (just let go of shutter button and press another few times till desired focus point is achieved or manually select focus point).
Digital cameras not just have a thing about the reds but also the purples. Both cameras rendered purple very differently. If we talk about reality, Olympus rendered purple as purple, much closer to the real colors. As for the Panasonic, morning glory has turned blue.
My boy wanted rain in such extremely hot season lately. Personally, I prefer the greens from the Olympus in these shots.
Next, we look at the ergonomics of both cameras.
Verdict:
1. Panasonic doesn’t seem to understand the power of Micro Four Thirds is in it’s SIZE too. The pursuit of producing High Quality Cameras in the smallest size possible. Even Ricoh understood that! (Beautiful GXR!) It’s either we settle down on the size of a typical DSLR or we go really small.
2. The collapsible Olympus kit lens is even lighter than the ones that came with the E-P1 and E-P2 this time, having a plastic mount. The front element when extended still is wiggly though it does not affect it’s function at all. If you want something real solid, go for the Leicas. :p
3. The grip on the E-PL1 feels much better and more comfortable than the GF1. The GF1 is a little heavy for it’s smooth grip.
4. The shutter sound on the E-PL1 sounds nicer to me. The GF1 sounds clanky.
5. Though the GF1 seems quicker in releasing it’s shutter, results have shown it does not necessarily means nailing the focus better than the E-PL1.
Overall, the GF1 looks more classy, expensive and professional and the E-PL1 looks more plasticky BUT I personally prefer the lightweight E-PL1 and it’s overall image performance. Again, if I want something real professional, classy and small, it will be either the Leica M8 or M9.
As compared with the E-P1 and E-P2, this is what I discovered:
1. The E-PL1 is much sharper than both E-P1 and E-P2.
2. The AF on the E-PL1 is slightly faster than the E-P1 and E-P2. The AF is exceptionally fast with the NEW m-zuiko 9-18mm lens. This one I hope I can get a copy for further review at a later stage but I tried it once and it was really impressive!
3. The E-PL1 is more intelligent in handling backlit situations. It is also overall more intelligent than the E-P1 and E-P2.
I hope I have not made people more confused and all the effort I put in this post helps someone out there. 🙂 Cheers!
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Hi David, i’m Zainul. We had meet at Olympus Gathering nov. last year at Royal Selangor Pewter. I like to link you web site at my web site. I just started my official web site and still progressly updated from time to time. I hope i can learn more about photography from u. Currently i’m using Olympus E-520, 14-45mm, 40-150mm, and 50mm f2. Keep in touch.
Best regard,
Zainul
Yes, you are welcomed to link my site. Thank you very much for your kind support! Enjoy photography and enjoy sharing it! Cheers!
Great review David, and really simple too. I guess lugging around 2 M43 cameras isn’t too bad after all 🙂
Small M43 cameras are perfect cameras for everyday use and great for street photography! 😉
David,
Found your review with a web search. Been looking at the Micro Four Thirds reviews on various sites for the past week. I just wanted to say thanks for posting this excellent review – it was exactly the real world information I was looking for between the two camera’s I was interested in. The only thing holding me back from buying a PL-1 now is the thought that it forces Olympus to upgrade the P-2 (at least to include the pop-up flash!) and I feel sure that if I buy a PL-1 then a P-3 will be announced the next day! In many ways I prefer the look and feel of the P-2 but my camera has to have a built in flash. The cost is not a big issue. Any thoughts on when they might put out the a P-update?
Thanks
Anthony, Thanks, so glad that my post did help you.
Your concern is reasonable! I have no idea when a “e-p3” will pop up BUT I feel pretty sure it’s gonna be soon as in maybe within next 3-6 months(My Guess). We are living in the era of constant digital updates with photography turning more into a gadget lifestyle than ARTS. I would think getting what you need at your budget when you need it and selling it when you “need” that upgrade is a “common reasonable move” many make.
The E-PL1 might just be more than sufficient to satisfy you for at least a few years if you are one who can hold back on “upgrading”. However, if you are enjoying photography as a gadget lifestyle like what I have mentioned, as well as arts at the same time… (like me)… cameras will certainly come and go.
So, go get what you “need” if you can’t wait. There will always be a “Better” camera! Cheers!
Hi,
Thanks for all the reviews and comparisons. It seems to me that the best combo would be a E-P* and the Panasonic 20 mm lens, which, unfortunately, will cost a bomb if bought separately.
I’m actually looking for a camera which records good videos (in view of replacing a 8 year-old videocam, but the wife prefers a real videocam because of form-factor and the 15X zoom instead of the larger sensor of m4/3 cameras, which will theoretically produce better-quality videos!!! WIVES!!!).
I would have gotten a GF1 because of the 20mm lens, but since it only records in mono sound, it’s out for me. Here in Singapore, the E-P1 is only S$250 more expensive than the E-PL1 for the two-lenses deal, while E-P2 is only available with the viewfinder (which I don’t think I’d use, as I didn’t use the one with my GX-100) in a one-lens package (the other lens has to be bought separately). Unless I can somehow get hold of the Pana 20mm lens at a cheap price, I would wait for the E-P3 or GF2, or whichever model that meets most if not all of my requirements.
cheers!
kg
Hi,
I forgot to ask, does the E-PL1 record videos in Mono or Stereo sound? The specs from Olympus SG website said “Stereo” but somewhere I saw says it records in “mono” sound.
Thanks.
kg
KG: So far, all Olympus sites state “Stereo”. It is Stereo. The Olympus EVF2 is a lot better than any other electronic viewfinder you can find. But using the EVF is more for stills rather than video, especially shooting stills with manual focus lenses. It makes MF 100% useable and quick, without having to magnify on Live View each time.
In Singapore, you can easily get some good deals in http://www.clubsnap.com under wts/wtb sections. A mint used 20/1.7 is around SGD500. You might wanna try sell/buy your stuff there.
As for video, the Panasonic GH1 is currently the best choice with 1080HD. However, most people find editing a 720HD video more practical. So, it really depends on what you need.
David,
Steve Huff (http://www.stevehuffphoto.com/2010/04/07/the-olympus-e-pl1-review-the-best-jpeg-camera-ever/) commented that “it WILL record Stereo but only with the stereo mic attached to the hot shoe. The E-PL1’s built in mic is mono.” Can you confirm?
Thanks
KG,
So sorry. It’s my mistake. See the comparison here: http://www.dpreview.com/previews/olympusepl1/page3.asp
It’s mono. I haven’t deal much with the video function yet :p
I have also just spoken to a Olympus Manager:
1. The E-PL1 supports stereo sound recording, just that you gotta attach the external stereo mic. Unlike the GF1 which doesn’t support stereo recording, attaching an external stereo mic won’t help.
2. In E-PL1’s i-auto mode, the i-enhance is automatically “ON”, sometimes causing the reds indoors to be over-saturated and “over-cooked”. Switch to P mode with i-enhance switched off will help.
Hi David,
About the i-ENHANCE, in P/A/S/M mode, you can either choose i-ENHANCE, Vivid, Natural, Muted, Portrait, Monotone or Custom color settings.
i-ENHANCE is automatically selected in i-AUTO because majority non-photographers prefer images that are more vivid. But normal Vivid mode then to over-saturate most details. Believe it or not, i-ENHANCE are selective in its saturation while maintaining the details!
(oops, spelling error)
it should be…”But normal Vivid mode TEND to over-saturate…”
Hi, I have my GF1 for about 2 months now. I was thinking to buy a EPL1 and use the 20mm lens on it. Do you think the auto focus would be improved?
I was wondering how solid is EPL1 feels come compare to EP1/2 and GF1? I will use the VF-2, so the 2.7 LCD display is not a problem.
Lastly, there is patch coming on 4.22 for Olympus, and it would improve the AF by 15%, do you think it will be a noticeable increase of speed?
Thank you
Yes, the E-PL1 with the lumix 20/1.7 lens actually produces nicer pictures than the GF1 due to Olympus’s processing. The AF was significantly faster when I used it on my E-P2 as compared to the Olympus 17mm/2.8, so it should also perform the same on the E-PL1.
The GF1, E-P1 and E-P2 definitely feels more solid than the E-PL1 but the E-PL1 has the most comfortable grip.
Usually, I don’t find significant differences in firmware updates BUT they are usually noticeable, though not significant.
Hi David, pretty interested in your AF accuracy comments. Since you mention that on average you’re getting the same number of keepers from either cam, how do you find the accuracy of the GF-1 for non motion intensive shooting vis a vis the E-PL1? (E.g. simple dinner group shots etc)
Rur,
Both cameras are reliable in AF when it comes to still shots with the GF1 slightly more certain and decisive. The EPL1 hunts a little more.
Hi David, thanks for the review. 🙂
I just bought an Olympus E-PL1 with 14-42 kit lens and I am glad I decided to get it over Panasonic GF1. I still haven’t fully use but will trying it out over the weekend. I have used Canon 40D before with different lenses but decided to downgrade myself as I thought I am just a mid-serious (he he he!) photographer.
For me the E-PL1 is very appealing, it may not look as nice in the picture but looks great in real and I like it a lot.
Thanks!
Roberto, I am glad I did help. Have fun with your E-PL1 and join the workshops Olympus organizes if you want to learn more. Or you can email me too.
Hi David, thanks! Will check with Olympus on the workshop they have here in Singapore and hope to learn more. 🙂
Hi,David, thanks for the quick reply.
One more question. As you are saying EP1/2, EPL1 produce better jpeg. However, some where I have read, the EP1 are slower on produce or store pictures into the memory card. I remember a test some reviewer did, they used single shoot mode, and keep take pictures. Turns out EP1, was only able to take 3 pictures and the internal buff as almost full, and 4th pictures take about few second longer to produce, and on the 5th, and camera was unable to take any more pictures, and shows in process on the LCD.
Not sure if you think it might be the draw back of the better in-body image processor?
Maxim,
I asked Olympus for you. The answer is as follows:
“All the 3 PENs uses the same image processor,i.e. TruePic V. They also have the same memory buffer.
That means the writing speed is the same. In fact the specs of E-P1 states that if using a Class 6 SD card to shoot JPEGs, the camera will continue to write while shooting until the card is full.”
Hope this answers your question.
Hi,
I’m also looking for a camera which records good videos. Does anyone know about differences in video recording quality between E-PL1 and GF1? According to dpreview the specs of E-Pl1 (and E-P2) are
• Motion JPEG: 1280 x 720, 30fps
640 x 480, 30fps
and in GF1
• AVCHD : 1280 x 720
• Motion JPEG:
1280 x 720, 30fps
848 x 480, 30fps
640 x 480, 30fps
320 x 240, 30fps
Is the quality in AVCHD better than in Motion JPEG or is it only a different way of compressing?
I was actually surprised how close your images were to each other. I did the same evaluation, however only shooting in RAW, and the PL1’s output was near dead on but the GF-1’s needed extensive post processing to bring it into line. I think these cameras overall are so close it is surprising. The main reason I settled on the PL1 was the internal image stabilization, which I find more versatile. In the end you can flip a coin and be assured of fine image quality. This is good news for the consumer for sure. It will be encouraging to see the next few generations of mft cameras as they will continue to be very competitive.
Using the e-pl1 with legacy M-mount lenses is fabulous. The e-pl1 body with Leica M mount 40mm F2.0, and 90mm F4.0 is all you need for action and portraits. Use the kit lens for wide angle and you are good to go. Manual focus/zone focus works great with these lenses. If you don’t have access to this kind of glass cross your fingers for manual prime lenses. Made with modern plastics in native micro 4/3 mount these could be really small, inexpensive and light with fabulous image quality.
Niclas,
To answer your questions, I have gathered the following information, here are the PROs and CONs of AVCHD and Motion JPEG:
Motion JPEG:
Easy to edit (eg.cut and stitch), universal file type that’s easy to share and read. However, file size is big.
AVCHD:
Smaller file size and requires AVCHD software to open, not all PC specs are compatible.
The HD motion JPEGs from the PENs have been widely accepted as very high quality files, but whether they are better than the AVCHD files is not proven, however, definitely easier to edit and share.
All the PENs support stereo recording so this is already better than the GF1 which is mono. Unless you are going for the GH1 which is specially designed for video.
Michael,
The Olympus OM lenses’ sizes fit real nicely on the MFTs too. Also if you can find the old Pentax 110 SLR series of lenses, they are great! And the Leica M-mount elmarits are fantastic too! As for wide angles, the C-mount lenses can be an alternative though with some vignetting. The m-mount voigtlander Heliars 12mm, 15mm works fine too. And the NEW Olympus M-Zuiko 9-18mm is amazingly fast in it’s AF on the E-PL1!
David,
Your sharing really good and help a lot to newbies just like me, whose is going to have a DSLR camera. Before make a decision which one is nicer to buy, i would like to know, is EPL1 and GF1 got weatherproof? are both can be operated well in winter season as i will bring it travel to west country. I had read from somewhere, GF1 can take photo underwater, true?
Yuri,
The PEN is not a DSLR. It’s something between a DSLR and a compact digital but offers similar features to a DSLR except that it’s slower in shutter response as compared to a DSLR. If you need something that’s weatherproof, the lower priced DSLRs will be Nikon D300s, Canon 7D, Pentax K-7 and Olympus E-3, and Olympus has some weatherproof and even shockproof compact digitals which are pretty amazing!
Most cameras today can operate in winter season, unless you are referring to trekking for long period of time in snow and extreme weather conditions.
Only the E-PL1 can support underwater shooting but you need to buy the underwater housing from Olympus for it.
Hope I have answered your questions and if you need more information, you can email me as these comment boxes may be a little too small. Cheers!
Excellent write up.
I’m using the GF1 and agree with the review on the plain colours and the slow shutter speed selection in automode 1/8 to 1/30 (low iso) resulting in many blurr pictures.
I love the EPL1 from many reviews. The only reason I have not switch is due to the shutter speed limitation 1/2000 making it difficult to use my exisiting 20mm 1.7 lens at wide open in bright daylight (where shutter speeds of 1/3200 is the norm). When I was in Swiss alps last week, shutter speeds were at 1/4000 all the way when I shot wide open f1.7 – even the GF1 had trouble handling the snow. I couldn’t shoot with bokeh when it hits that limit.
Thanks ^^
wksoh,
Try getting a ND filter for your 20/1.7 Panny lens. It’ll help you achieve what you want. :p
Very thank you for your sharing,
great usefull for a newbie like me, :p,
i just bought a EPL-1 recently, finding out how great it could make.
This is a great non technical comparison. I’ve read a lot of complaints about the PL1’s AF being slow — dreadfully slow. I’m assuming its slow relative to a DSLR, but does it keep up fine with today’s P&Ss? I’ve been using digital P&Ss 10 years. While they’re not instant to lock, a 1/2 second or so is not really a problem for normal use.
Also, will the AF speed be improved with the new 14-150 lens? Thanks.
In actual fact, the E-P1/2/L1 do not have shutter lag. The lag you feel is the transition between frames in Live View. It is unlike the common shutter lag in P&S digital cameras. That is, if you use Live View on DSLRs, you feel the same lag.
As for AF lags, the Olympus does hunt a little more than the Panasonic, but the so-called “locking the focus” and activating the shutter in the Panasonic, though seems faster than Olympus, also does not guarantee that it nailed the focus point as tested.
With the new m-zuiko 9-18mm and 14-150mm, the AF is indeed significantly faster than the old lenses as the new lenses have only ONE moving element during AF. But the 14-150, being such a long range in focal length, is of course slower than the 9-18mm.
Thank you! You’ve just saved me $250. The E-PL1 has $50 off 5/2 – 5/8 (Mother’s day kind of thing), and you can find it for $550 this week. I look forward to reading more of your blog.
Hello david.
We met once during the E-P2 launch sometime ago.
I had the pleasure of owning the E-P1 but recently some bad luck came upon me and it was nicked from me.
Now i am going around looking for a suitable replacement.
have a technical question though.
Someone here said that a fast shutter speed = larger aperture. Can you explain a bit about that? And you said to put a ND filter on the 20mm to negate the slow shutter speeds on the E-PL1. how can that help?
Thanks!
Oh I am so sorry to hear that… don’t worry, people who steals will have worse luck than anybody…
Shutter speed and aperture are 2 different things. What that person means is Fast Lens.
Wikipedia has the explanations. Click on the links I have attached in this comment. To know what ND filter does, click here.
If you still have further questions after reading, please email to dcpweddings@gmail.com and I’ll try to explain more in detail. Cheers!
Hi david… Thanks so much for this review. I am really glad to see this comparison. I am actually struggling to buy Canon S90 or Olympus E-PL1 now. *of course, one for its mobility and the other for its performance*
Any advice to me on this? And i personally believe that i am pretty good in handling with normal compact cameras, but my only worry is it might quite difficult to handle with E-PL1. As in , is E-PL1 a user friendly camera? Of course, i do not mind learning all over again, but i will prefer to be able master a camera like as soon as possible. For example
Please share your insight on this with me. Thanks so much! 🙂
The S90 is definitely more compact. As for the E-PL1, you will be entering into a very expandable system, a system even more expandable than any DSLRs. That is, the possibility of using the widest range of old to new lenses in the world. Also, the additional HD video and ART filters. The E-PL1 has a live guide so it should not be difficult to use. You should first try it out at a store before you buy just to make sure.
We are comparing a non-expandable daily pocket camera to a very expandable system here which definitely produces higher quality images due to it’s larger sensor n processing technology.
Very nice and comprehensive review. Thanks!
I’ve been using a normal point and shoot camera all my life. Recently there’s been many new additions to the family including cute little nieces and nephews and I’m hoping to upgrade to a better camera that would be quick enough to capture all those moments and with better quality results. I’m also looking for a camera easy enough to carry around when I travel. Thus discovered Olympus E-PL1. At the same time while surfing and researching on E-PL1 online, the Panasomic Lumix DMC ZS7 caught my eye. Now I’m confuse. Does it make any sense at all to compare this 2 cameras?
Hi SC,
The Panasonic DMC ZS7 is a compact digital camera. All compacts have some shutter lag though the latest ones have minimum lag but still, there’s a lag(shutter activates slightly slower than you actually press the button). Being compact, the sensor size is also smaller than the micro-four-thirds(e-pl1 and gf1). The micro-four-thirds belong to another category altogether as they are actually identical to the DSLRs but without the mirror and prisms, thus making them much slimmer.
As for colors straight out of the camera, the Olympus has always been known to produce better colors than the Panasonics, especially in the skin tones.
Hello David,
Thank you for this great review. I am an “everyday mommy” and looking to “upgrade” from a point and shoot and one of the biggest issues I had with my current Canon (which is a few years old) is the time lag for focus and shooting. I am also trying to capture moving children, often indoors with very bad lighting. It seems that the Panasonic has a better speed than the Olympus, but quite honestly, do you think it is really noticeable for an amateur such as myself? At the moment, I am preferring the Olympus – seems that you do too? Would welcome your thoughts. Thank you.
In my personal experience with both cameras, the Panasonic only “seems” to be faster but in actual fact, got quite a number of out-of-focus blur shots even though the shutter was activated. And the colors straight out of the Olympus definitely is much nicer than the Panny to my taste. I would say the current E-PL1 is the most worthwhile buy for it’s price.
Thank you for writing the article in such layman terms. I/ve recently decided to up my photography gear (Lumix Fs3 only ^^;;; ) to something better but not yet a DSLR because I personally have scrawny arms.
Olympus E-PL1 is looking more and more alluring.*_*
Hi, I’m considering to buy EPL1, but I want to make sure that it can take nice night shots. Please help me here. Thanks
There are tons of very nice night shots done by the Olympus Digital PEN series on flickr. Just do a search in http://www.flickr.com for e-p1, e-p2 and e-pl1. I have also posted some in this site. Do email me if you need further help.
Thanks for the link, that helps a lot.
Good review, did you enable iISO?
– It should detect object movement and go to faster shutter speed to avoid blur (despite presence of (IB)IS that indeed becomes less effective at 1/8 s)…